Walking down the skincare aisle can be overwhelming. Every product promises clearer skin, but ingredient lists read like chemistry exams. How do you know what actually works? With so much marketing hype, it's essential to cut through the noise and understand which ingredients have real evidence behind them.
In this comprehensive guide, we break down the most effective acne-fighting ingredients, explain how they work, and help you understand how to incorporate them into your routine. No fancy marketing claims—just science-backed facts.
The Star Players
Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and one of the most effective ingredients for acne-prone skin. Unlike water-soluble AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores and dissolve the mixture of sebum and dead skin cells that cause blockages.
How it works:
- Penetrates into pores to dissolve clogs from within
- Exfoliates dead skin cells on the surface
- Has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness
- Helps regulate sebum production over time
Best for: Blackheads, whiteheads, oily skin, enlarged pores
Typical concentrations: 0.5% - 2% in over-the-counter products
How to use: Start with 2-3 times per week, gradually increasing to daily use if tolerated. Can be used morning or evening. Works well as a leave-on treatment (serums, toners) rather than wash-off products.
💡 Pro Tip
Salicylic acid works best at a low pH (around 3-4). Leave-on products are more effective than cleansers because the ingredient needs time to work. If using a salicylic acid cleanser, let it sit on your skin for 60 seconds before rinsing.
Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is a powerful antibacterial agent that kills the C. acnes bacteria responsible for inflammatory acne. It's one of the few over-the-counter ingredients that directly targets acne-causing bacteria.
How it works:
- Kills acne-causing bacteria by releasing oxygen into pores
- Helps reduce inflammation
- Has mild comedolytic (pore-unclogging) properties
- Bacteria cannot develop resistance to it (unlike antibiotics)
Best for: Inflammatory acne (papules, pustules), bacterial acne
Typical concentrations: 2.5%, 5%, 10% (higher isn't always better—2.5% is often equally effective with less irritation)
How to use: Start with lower concentrations (2.5%) to minimise irritation. Can be used as a wash-off treatment (cleanser) or leave-on (spot treatment, cream). Warning: bleaches fabrics, so watch your towels and pillowcases!
Retinoids (Retinol, Adapalene, Tretinoin)
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives and are considered the gold standard for both acne treatment and anti-aging. They work by increasing cell turnover, preventing the buildup of dead skin cells that clog pores.
How they work:
- Accelerate skin cell turnover, preventing pore blockages
- Reduce sebum production over time
- Improve skin texture and tone
- Help fade post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation
- Stimulate collagen production (anti-aging benefit)
Types available:
- Retinol: Over-the-counter, gentler, converts to retinoic acid in skin
- Adapalene (Differin): Available OTC in Australia, well-tolerated, specifically designed for acne
- Tretinoin: Prescription-only, most potent, gold standard
How to use: Always use at night (increases sun sensitivity). Start slowly—once or twice a week—and gradually increase frequency. Expect initial "purging" (temporary worsening) as skin adjusts. Always wear sunscreen during the day.
⚠️ Retinoid Rules
Never use retinoids with benzoyl peroxide in the same routine (they can deactivate each other). Don't combine with AHAs/BHAs initially. Allow skin to adjust before introducing other actives. Pregnant or breastfeeding women should avoid retinoids.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide is a versatile, well-tolerated ingredient that addresses multiple skin concerns without the irritation of stronger actives. It's become a skincare favourite for good reason.
How it works:
- Regulates sebum production (reduces oiliness)
- Strengthens the skin barrier
- Reduces inflammation and redness
- Minimises the appearance of pores
- Helps fade hyperpigmentation
Best for: All skin types, especially oily and sensitive skin; can be used alongside most other ingredients
Typical concentrations: 2% - 10% (5% is the sweet spot for most people)
How to use: Can be used morning and/or evening. Plays well with most other ingredients, making it easy to incorporate. One of the few actives that works synergistically with vitamin C.
Supporting Cast
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is an underrated multitasker that's particularly effective for inflammatory acne and post-acne marks. It's naturally occurring and found in grains like wheat and barley.
Benefits:
- Antibacterial properties against C. acnes
- Reduces inflammation
- Inhibits melanin production (helps with hyperpigmentation)
- Gentle enough for sensitive skin and safe during pregnancy
Typical concentrations: 10% OTC, 15-20% prescription
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid are water-soluble exfoliants that work on the skin's surface. While not as effective as BHA for getting into pores, they're excellent for overall texture improvement and fading post-acne marks.
Best for: Surface texture, hyperpigmentation, dry skin types
Popular AHAs:
- Glycolic acid: Smallest molecule, most potent, best for normal/oily skin
- Lactic acid: Larger molecule, gentler, also hydrates
- Mandelic acid: Largest molecule, very gentle, good for sensitive skin
Tea Tree Oil
A natural alternative with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show 5% tea tree oil can be as effective as 5% benzoyl peroxide, though it works more slowly.
How to use: Always diluted (pure tea tree oil is too strong). Look for products containing 5% or less. Good option for those wanting natural alternatives.
Sulphur
An old-school ingredient that's still effective. Sulphur absorbs excess oil, has antibacterial properties, and helps unclog pores. It has a distinctive smell but works well for many people.
Best for: Oily skin, spot treatments, those who can't tolerate benzoyl peroxide
🎯 Ingredient Quick Reference
- Blackheads/clogged pores: Salicylic acid, retinoids
- Inflammatory acne: Benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid
- Oily skin: Niacinamide, salicylic acid
- Post-acne marks: AHAs, azelaic acid, retinoids, vitamin C
- Sensitive skin: Niacinamide, azelaic acid, centella
Ingredients to Approach with Caution
Coconut Oil
Despite its popularity, coconut oil is highly comedogenic (pore-clogging) and not suitable for acne-prone skin. Avoid using it on your face.
Alcohol (Denatured)
High concentrations of alcohol can strip the skin barrier, leading to irritation and rebound oil production. Small amounts in well-formulated products are fine, but avoid products where alcohol is a top ingredient.
Fragrance
Fragrance (whether synthetic or natural) can irritate sensitive and acne-prone skin. When possible, choose fragrance-free products, especially for leave-on treatments.
Building Your Ingredient Stack
Now that you understand individual ingredients, here's how to combine them effectively:
Basic Beginner Routine
- Morning: Gentle cleanser → Niacinamide serum → Moisturiser → Sunscreen
- Evening: Gentle cleanser → Salicylic acid (2-3x/week) → Moisturiser
Intermediate Routine
- Morning: Gentle cleanser → Niacinamide serum → Moisturiser → Sunscreen
- Evening (alternating): Retinoid OR Salicylic acid → Moisturiser
Targeting Specific Concerns
- Lots of blackheads: Prioritise salicylic acid
- Inflammatory breakouts: Add benzoyl peroxide spot treatment
- Dark spots/marks: Add azelaic acid or vitamin C
- Anti-aging + acne: Prioritise retinoids
Final Thoughts
Understanding ingredients empowers you to make informed decisions about your skincare rather than being swayed by marketing. Remember that more isn't always better—a simple routine with one or two effective actives will outperform a complicated routine that irritates your skin.
Start with one active ingredient, give it time to work (6-8 weeks), and only add more once your skin has adjusted. Your skin is unique, so what works for someone else might not work for you. Be patient, be consistent, and let the science do its work.